Tom Ford Magnificent

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Tom Ford an American fashion designer, filmmaker, perfumer, etc. Ford brings a hard-edged style synonymous with 21st century glamour to his clothes. He is a fashion icon and anything he touches makes lots of money for the fashion houses he manages. We just received a massive book on the history of his collections that highlights the best of Tom Ford’s years at Gucci and YSL.

Ford transformed Gucci from a dull seen its day accessories house into a powerhouse of fashion. In 1994 he took the dying fashion house and introduced velvet hip hip-huggers paired with skinny bright satin shirts. The images of model Amber Valletta and Madonna wearing these suggestive pieces are iconic to Ford’s collection.

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In 1995, Ford, stylist French stylist Carine Roitfeld and photographer Mario Testino created an ad campaign that increased Gucci’s sales 90%. Tom Ford brought the almost bankrupt Gucci to be valued at $10 billion when he left in 1999. He went on to be  Creative Director for YSL, created YSL fragrances like Opium with the usual sexualized ad, and his own White and Black Orchid scents.

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This book is a complete catalog of Ford’s design work for both Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent from 1994 to 2004 and was created with cooperation with Ford. It is Ford’s testament to a career full of reinventing the boundaries of style and sensuality in clothing.

Click below  for the book.

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“Punk: Chaos to Couture”

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The Met’s spring 2013 Costume Institute exhibition, PUNK: Chaos to Couture, will examine punk’s impact on high fashion from the movement’s birth in the early 1970s through its continuing influence today. Featuring approximately one hundred designs for men and women, the exhibition will include original punk garments and recent, directional fashion to illustrate how haute couture and ready-to-wear borrow punk’s visual symbols.

Focusing on the relationship between the punk concept of “do-it-yourself” and the couture concept of “made-to-measure,” the seven galleries will be organized around the materials, techniques, and embellishments associated with the anti-establishment style. Themes will include New York and London, which will tell punk’s origin story as a tale of two cities, followed by Clothes for Heroes and four manifestations of the D.I.Y. aesthetic—HardwareBricolageGraffiti and Agitprop, and Destroy.

Presented as an immersive multimedia, multisensory experience, the clothes will be animated with period music videos and soundscaping audio techniques.

Videos from the show

The catalog for the show is on order in the Arts Division.

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Read more at the NYT and here .

Books on Punk and Fashion

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street

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innocent

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Fashion: From Jazz to Vogue’s Eye

Two new fashion books have arrived in the Art Division. One covers the glamorous world of 1920s fashion and the other celebrates the role the fashion editor has played at Vogue for 120 years.

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Vogue: The Editor’s Eye, retraces the work of Vogue’s legendary fashion editors including Pally Mellen, Babs Simpson, and Grace Coddington. These women collaborated with photographers, designers and stylists to create the fantasy world (for most of us anyway) of fashion. The book focuses on Vogue‘s dazzling archive of images that have had an impact on fashion, music, and culture. This book is lavish in its design and photographs. These editors had and still do have a vision when it comes to presenting the world of high fashion.

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The 1920s was one of the most stylish and influential fashion periods full of feathers, beads, sequins, and anything to over indulge in. After all this was a time of highly decorated Erte dresses and Art Deco.

Dressed to Kill: Jazz Age Fashion, brings us into that legendary elegant world of the 20s. This collection of photographs comes from Virginia, the most fabulous renowned antique clothing store in London. Many stylists, designers, models and museums use this store as their go to place for dresses, coats, and accessories from this time period. All are carefully preserved offering inspiration from this glittering time to all who are looking for the craftsmanship and ornamentation of this important fashion period. This is a lavish book, full of exquisite photographs. Indulge!

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The Real Frida Look: Frida Kahlo’s Clothes

On November 20, 2012 the world can see some of what belonged to Frida Kahlo. An exhibit opens at the Frida Kahlo Museum in Mexico City.  After being locked away for 50 years viewers can now see the billowing colorful skirts and blouses Kahlo wore. They will also feel the physical and emotional pain they covered up. The museum will display a full collection from her wardrobe. These dresses, jewelery , and shoes have been locked away for 50 years in her dressers. These clothes still retain her perfume and cigarette scents.

Frida’s choice of clothing reflected things she experienced in life. Frida suffered from polio as a child and a then bus accident at 18 caused her great pain throughout her life. The clothes she chose to wear functioned as armor for her pain. Her long skirts hid her tiny right leg and she wore corsets for back pain. Emotional pain was caused by miscarriages and the many affairs she had to suffer through that her husband muralist Diego Rivera engaged in.

As she covered up pain, at the same time was exuberant in her self-confidence. Her clothes as her artwork were full of color. Kahlo’s style has influenced many artists, designers and musicians, like Madonna and Jean Paul Gaultier. There are youtube clips on how to dress like her, do makeup like hers, and braid hair like hers.

After Kahlo died in 1954, her husband ordered her clothes to be locked up for 15 years. He died three years later, leaving art collector Dolores Olmedo as the manager of his wife’s collection. She refused to give access to Kahlo’s archives of letters, clothes, jewelry and photographs and they were not unlocked until 2004 after Olmedo died.

Museum director Hilda Trujillo said three of Kahlo’s dresses created a frenzy when they were shown in 2007, featured in fashion stories across the world. No doubt this opening of her personal wardrobe will create another frenzy.

This exhibit will display the white corset that Kahlo featured in her self-portrait “The Broken Column.”

And there will be an earring that was a gift from Pablo Picasso and was featured in a 1940 self-portrait and the mate has never been found. Kahlo’s blouses were custom made; she bought the fabrics and took them to Indian seamstresses. Often she bought velvet cherry, the fabric often used for traditional elegant dresses in Oaxaca region known as the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. The Tehuana dress, was named after the Indian women of that region and wad said to be Kahlo’s signature piece of clothing.

As women during Kahlo’s life were highly influenced by her style and this exhibit will no doubt expose younger women around the world to her style.

Read more at the links below.

The Real Frida Look: Frida Kahlo’s Clothes Go on Exhibit in Mexico After 50 Years Locked Away

The Real Frida Kahlo

Museo Frida Kahlo

Some Items at the Central Library about Frida Kahlo
we have much more

DVD

 

In Spanish

The September Issue… 916 pages of Decadence…Fashion Week

Some wait all year for it and then devour it page by page. Vogue‘s 120th anniversary issue is longer than most novels, the September  issue of Vogue is 916 pages and a good 90% are ads for stunningly beautiful things like Ralph Lauren and Prada, and Lanvin and the ads go on and on. . .

So what if most of us will never own that opulent Marc Jacobs Louis Vuitton dress as seen on a model photographed on a vintage locomotive as it rolls into the station circa 1912. So what we, love looking at them. Read more about this 8 million dollar steam engine here. All photographed by Steven Meisel.

Click to watch the Vuitton Fall 2012 Runway show.

The September issue has always been the one that all Vogue readers have waited for, as it is the issue that signals the turn of the season from summer to beautiful autumn and brings to us the best of the runway collections. This issue also gets the fashion world ready for Fashion’s Night Out, which behind on September 6, 2012. It is the night that brings the editors, stars, models, and designers together as they visit the stores across the country and around the world for fashion’s most iconic extravaganza.

This issue at its 916 pages is full of the most sumptuous collections seen in a very long time. There is the opulence, the brocades, the beautiful cuts of the suits, and ball gowns so full from Dolce & Gabbana, Vera Wang and Dior that the woman who dons such a dress may have to be on the ballroom floor alone.

We also see Victoriana and bustles photographed at Edith Wharton’s estate, The Mount, in Lenox, Massachusetts. There are delightful Mulberry ads with model Lindsey Wixson all influenced by Maurice Sendak’s, Where the Wild things Are. Shot by Tim Walker in England’s Blackheath Forest (a place whose very name can’t help but conjure fairy-tale visions), the images feature the model surrounded by a host of larger-than-life monsters and beasts.

If you are a Florence and the Machine fan, you can catch an ethereal photo of Florence Welch, on pages on 854-855.  Riding a black horse and swathed in Chanel and Dior she brings theatricality to her photo spread as she does to the stage.

As always there are the special foldouts that feature designers specifically Dior who congratulates Vogue in their 120th year of publication. One fold out features a spectacular red Dior dress which show the inside construction and reminds us why so many pay so much for couture.

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This issue as always in the last few does not have a model on the cover but instead a celebrity. Lady Gaga is poised in vibrant  Marc Jacobs fishtail gown for her return engagement as cover “model.” It would be nice to see models on the covers again, as they are the ones who really sell the designer’s goods.

Watch the shoot here.

The whole issue is a fantasy one that most will never see but it is always interesting to see what the designers are up to. You can check out many items from the library collections about designers, models, and fashion. See some of them below from Central’s vast collection.

Books

Available in book, book on CD, & and ebook format

Music

DVDs & Blu-ray

Available in DVD and Blu-ray

Jane Austen Fashion Show Here at the Central Library

Jane Austen Fashion Show Saturday, September 8, 2012 Noon-1 pm Kate Gleason Auditorium Central Library of Rochester & Monroe County 115 South Avenue Rochester, NY. FREE PROGRAM Registration is recommended since seating is limited.

To register, call 585-428-8140, or register online from the event listing at www.libraryweb.org.  Register before September 4th to have your name entered in a drawing to win a ‘Pride and Prejudice’ DVD! Must be present at the fashion show to win. Lisa Brown, of Regency Rentals, will present the fashions of the late 18th and early 19th century using live models. The show will explore the history and social significance of the fashions for men and women. The Central Library is accessible to people with disabilities. To request specific accommodations, call 585-428-8304 ten days prior to the program.